This post will introduce you to a well-loved Epoxy Flooring Indianapolis that is taking modern homes and commercial spaces by storm.

It has a look that gives a chic modern design that adapts to any aesthetic. The epoxy flooring system is made of 100% solid epoxy. And it can be enhanced with various additives of paints, metallic chips, and quartz to add stunning visuals to the final product.

In today’s article, you will learn pro tips for installing epoxy floors. Hiring an experienced contractor for concrete resurfacing, like installing this kind of epoxy garage floor Indianapolis, is advised to avoid any blunders that could break the bank and ruin your finances.

open space area with a view on the outside

A Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Epoxy Floor

We’ll introduce you to how an epoxy is applied to a surface. There are also various types of epoxy finishes applied to garages, kitchens, or retail spaces with particular designs and techniques to use to produce a specific look and flooring patterns.

Here you will also learn how a basic epoxy with a clear base is applied. The difference with the chip variant, metallic or custom 3D design finishes.

Prepping The Concrete

Worker grinding concrete for epoxy installation

Firstly, check for any cracks or spalling. It’s essential to repair them before taking any dramatic action. You can use an epoxy repair kit to quickly repair these breaks when in a pinch in terms of equipment.

Searching for any past coatings or floor installations might also be beneficial for preparing the floor and must be taken off if the floor was painted or had a concrete sealer applied.

Once all repairs are finished, it’s time to clean and prepare the concrete for the first layer once any cracks and spalls, if any, have been rectified.

Prepping Methods


 Grinding is always a good idea to prepare the concrete for the first layer of epoxy and to open up the surface. This performs an excellent job of floor preparation and is rather simple to use.

Acid Etching

Using acid etching to clean the concrete or roughen up the surface when applying an epoxy coating is not advised. 

Moisture is your enemy. But if you insist on using acid etching on concrete, be sure to neutralize it first, then rinse the concrete repeatedly to remove the residue thoroughly.
Keep in mind that the concrete may need several days to dry, which is why acid etching is not recommended.

The First Epoxy Coat

Worker pouring gray epoxy to the new floor

Applying a moisture vapor primer coating first is advised since it prevents most epoxy floor coating failures caused by moisture vapor. This primes or prepares the concrete so that your base coat of epoxy goes on smoothly and prevents moisture from evaporating through the concrete’s surface and causing your coating to peel. 

It would be reasonable to assume that you could get moisture blockers at the same retailer as epoxy since almost all manufacturers of epoxy also produce it.

Normally, it takes 4-6 hours for the vapor primer to cure completely before you can put the tinted base layer of epoxy. You have a timeframe of 24 hours to apply the subsequent layer when using multiple coats of epoxy. If you wait more than 24 hours before applying the next coat, you must sand down the first coat to provide traction for the dry coat to adhere properly to the second coat. 

You can achieve this with a floor buffer and a 120-grit sanding screen or a pole sander and 100-grit sandpaper. The typical ratio for mixing 2-part 100% solid epoxies is 2 parts A to 1 part B. Usually, A gallon of A and 1/2 gallon of B will be included in each kit. Some will have the A component pre-colored, while others will consist of a color packet of powder that you mix with the epoxy.

You’ll also need to keep track of the time because the epoxy usually calls for a 2-minute mixing period. Pouring the epoxy out of the bucket and onto the floor after mixing it is crucial. So, measure out this space and pour the epoxy if your 1.5-gallon kit will cover 150 square feet.

Second Coat: The Design

The second coat would usually be the design. You can choose chip epoxy, metallic, or marble and veining patterns.

Let us use the chip and metallic epoxy as an example for this process. For a chip epoxy, you can use 1.5 pounds of chips per 10 square feet of floor surface for a complete cast. You will also need your bucket of chips, spiked shoes, a rubber magic trowel, an edge roller, an 18″ roller, and a roller with a 3/8 nap.

You’ll walk in the epoxy as you roll the edges, distribute the epoxy with the rubber magic trowel, and finally roll the back with the 18″ roller.

Grab your bucket of chips or glittery paint chips and walk back into the epoxy after the epoxy has been evenly rolled out. Take a handful of paint or metallic chips and throw them up into the air just above your head.

The chips will spread out as they land in the epoxy. Repeat this process until the base coat is entirely covered in chips. If you are using metallic chips, the paint pieces will mix into the base coat and will add a lustrous effect on the surface.

Cleaning Up Excess Epoxy and Chips

After a full broadcast, there will be more chips. You could just vacuum them up, or you could use a leaf blower like we do to gather them all into a corner. Simply pick them up and place them in a bucket after that.

You could need some to touch up a spot or have some more on hand in case you need to fix a tiny area. The surface will feel rather harsh once we remove the chips. Before applying the topcoat, you should use a pole sander and floor scraper to smooth the surface of the dried chips.

The same floor buffer that you previously used might also be used with a 120-grit sanding screen. There’s no need to linger in one spot for too long; walk briskly over the floor. After you’re done sanding, thoroughly vacuum the floor.

Applying The Topcoat

Typically, epoxy has a transparent final layer. This is applied similarly to the base coat. The ultimate texture of your floor will depend on how thick this coat is.

The finishing coat will be of utmost importance to the experts of Epoxy Flooring Indianapolis. 

The topcoat is applied a bit thicker (approx: 80 square feet per gallon) if you want a smooth surface. If you want a little slide resistance from the chips, apply it a little thinner (approx: 100-120 square feet per gallon).

Urethane is frequently used as a finishing layer over epoxy, which adds excellent scratch resistance. You get around 250–300 square feet per gallon, which rolls on quite thinly—making the cost of your finishing coat worthwhile.

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